Three weeks later...

Esteban & I at Bungalow 6

Chicos y Chicas! It’s your favorite gringa checking in J It’s been a solid three weeks since you’ve all heard from me (to be fair, I did tell you not to expect punctuality), but because my weeks have paled in comparison to my weekends, allow me to fast forward in the hope that those of you with short attention spans might actual make it through one of my posts.

The only thing really worth noting from the week of the 16^th was that Thursday brought the last day of class and naturally, salsa lessons. Our Spanish teacher was easily convinced that spending the last hour of class learning to “dance” would enrich our cultural experience – the six of us are collectively incredibly charming and persuasive. As I’m sure those of you acquainted with my grace and coordination can easily imagine, Steve and I were naturals. Sorry Sean, but you and your old lady friend at the terrace have nothing on us.

Friday morning we boarded the bus at 8am and headed to El Pahuma, located on the western Andean slope about 42 kilometers outside of the city. I wasn’t really sure what I was getting into, but I knew I was ready for a break from Quito. I don’t think I’m ever going to be a city girl…

A little background: El Pahuma is a family owned Orchid Reserve that opened in 2000 and was Ceiba’s first project in Ecuador. El Pahuma is unique in that it was founded on only the second easement in South American and the first of its kind – between landowner and conservation organization. The 25 year agreement between the Lima family and Ceiba outlined that Ceiba would conduct a biological inventory, educate the family about the plants and animals that inhabit the 600 hectare reserve, aid in the construction of a nature center and botanical garden, and provide the family with a salary for the first five years of the agreement. In return, the Lima family will not permit the cutting of timber, extraction of species, or hunting of animals for the duration of the agreement.  12 years later, the Lima family is self-sustaining, generating funds from tourists – foreign and local – and serving as an example that conservation is a legitimate alternative to the deforestation pressures felt by many private land owners. Why is this so fucking brilliant? Buying out a bunch of families, roping off a plot of land, calling it a reserve, and slapping a price tag on it that makes it inaccessible to locals only generates bitterness and resentment towards the gringo with the fat wallet – no matter how good his/her intentions. The easement keeps the family in control and sets them up in a position to truly profit as guides, accountants, and educators while simultaneously promoting awareness and conservation. Although the outcome has been extremely positive, when the Lima family signed the easement in 2000, their future was uncertain at best. The early vision was not to conserve, but rather to subsist by way of logging, hunting, and creating pastures and entering into an agreement that prohibited all those potential sources of revenue truly put their livelihood at stake. The success of El Pahuma can be attributed without a doubt to the family’s commitment to conservation. They always understood the importance of preserving the absolute goldmine that they’re sitting on, but they didn’t know how to make a living off of it. My professors Joe and Catherine, backed by the Ceiba Foundation, have worked alongside the Lima family to make El Pahuma what it is today, in a partnership that has evolved into a genuine friendship based on mutual respect and a common goal.

Alright, back to my weekend... We arrived at El Pahuma, elevation 1900m, around 9am and spent a couple hours exploring the visitor center, botanical garden, and surrounding trails. After we ate lunch at the Lima family’s restaurant, we split up into two separate groups for the rest of the weekend and my group of 11 was led by our professor Catherine and our field TA Diana. Our lecture that afternoon was focused on cloud forest ecosystems and because there is no more fitting place to have that lecture than in the cloud forest, my group packed up our stuff and set out. Destination: Guarida del Osos (The Bear’s Den), a primitive cabin, elevation 2250m. Carrying all our gear, we hiked literally straight up, naturally, in the rain. And the decreased oxygen concentration wasn’t doing me any favors. Herman – remember that hike we did in Vail? Times that by about a million and you would be getting close to my Friday afternoon. Eventually we made it and our inevitable exhaustion was accompanied by an unparalleled sense of accomplishment. Our home for the night was perfect – a single worn cabin without running water or electricity and next to it, a wicked fire pit. After an hour or so of exploring, we settled in for a lecture on the birds of the Pahuma cloud forest. About half way through Cath’s lecture, as if on cue, a mixed flock of Tanagers landed just down the trail from the cabin. We all grabbed our bins and went to check it out. Now, I’ve never been a birdy or really understood all the hoopla and I definitely didn’t expect to get so excited, but there is something pretty intense about having a gorgeous Plate-Billed Mountain Toucan, endangered and endemic to the Pahuma cloud forest region, in your field of vision. Out of the mixed flock, I was able to identify a Grass Green Tanager and a Blue-Winged Mountain Tanager, both of which are incredibly beautiful – google it. After lecture we had some more free time to explore and then dinner. One of the Lima sisters hiked up to the cabin and prepared us an absolute feast only to be followed by hot chocolate and s’mores. Then, around 9:30pm we went for a night walk and stumbled upon a few tree frogs and a couple badass walking sticks. We eventually made it back to the fire and welcomed the warmth of delicious canelazo (a hot beverage consumed in the highlands of Ecuador, Peru and Columbia that consists of brandy, sugar, naranjilla juice, and cinnamon) as we relaxed and swapped stories (If you can imagine, I was able to contribute a few goodies). 

Will, Aviv, and I on the way up, doing some serious bonding

In the morning we got up at 6 to do some bird watching. In addition to another mixed flock of Tanagers, I saw a male and female Masked Trogan and a family of Powerful Woodpeckers. Fun Fact: Woodpeckers’ tongues actually wrap around their brains so they don’t rattle themselves stupid. After breakfast, we continued our upward hike along the Sandero Oso de Anteojos to the Yumbo Trail. It was longer and steeper than our hike from the day before, but at least we didn’t have to carry all of our shit. Mom – Pahuma was definitely my cure for overpacking. We stopped every now and then for Cath to point something out or explain a concept, and the amount that I retained is unreal. Everything is in front of you. It’s real. It’s relevant. It’s applicable. This is how learning is supposed to be.

The Powerfuls

Learning

The start of the Yumbo Trail - an old trade route that cut through the Andes hundreds of years ago

Hiking through the cloud forest is nuts. Very Jurassic Park. Oh, I guess this is a good time to mention that any picture I take with my camera that looks like a toy captures little to nothing so from here on out any picture is jacked from some else in my program with actual photography skills and a grown up camera. And pops – we saw some good bear sign, but no Andean bear… Oh, and shout out to Mark See for the bomb binocular straps! Best thing ever.

What goes up, must come down, and hiking down a mountain in a downpour isn’t exactly an easy task. The rain coupled with my natural grace led to a few solid wipeouts and my being completely covered in mud. Once we were back at the visitor center and all cleaned up (clean, mind you, not dry. Damp is pretty much a state of constant being when you literally live in the clouds.), we had a chance to sit and have a conversation with Renee, a son of the landowner and his son Geovani. They are both extremely passionate about conservation and what Pahuma stands for. They are incredibly down to earth and well intentioned people and I believe Pahuma has a very successful future.

After dinner, and spending the past 36 hours together, the 4 different bedrooms in the visitor center was giving my group separation anxiety. Our solution? Throw all our mattresses on the floor in the common room and have a slumber party. Duh.

Sunday morning we did some more bird watching before breakfast and spent the rest of the morning listening to Cath’s lecture on cloud forest vegetation and learning to make voucher specimens. The afternoon was set aside for a hike to the waterfall (and of course, then swimming in said waterfall). It was incredible.

My trip to El Pahuma made me realize just how over Quito I actually was and I couldn’t wait until our next trip. My host family on the other hand has a hard time understanding my excitement. They were less than thrilled with my muddy field clothes and were repulsed when I explained where we stayed and that nature was the baño. They aren’t exactly outdoorsy J.

Anyways, that’s all I have time for right now, as I’m sure you’re sick of reading my ramblings. I’m heading to the north coast until Sunday and won’t have internet so don’t expect to hear anything until then. My next post will include my weekend in the páramos, my first soccer game, my white water rafting trip, and my new British accent! Stay tuned and remember to think of me on the Thursday and take a shot because I’ll FINALLY be 21! That means you roomies!

And I miss you Steve!

And a special shout out to my mom – it’s her birthday today so give her a call or stop by the house and have a beer with her. Brandon talked to her last night Riley so you better get on it or he’s going to be the favorite…