Mis amores! I have a little free time and it’s a beautiful day so I figured I would grab a cup of coffee and let you all know what it is I’ve been up to! But before I get going, a couple more pics from Pahuma…

Our humble abode

Breakfast

The grandson of the landowner, the world's next great entomologist, and basically the cutest kid ever

Lecture

Listening to Jake play his air conditioner song :)

After our trip to the cloud forest, a week in Quito was an absolute drag. But, I really didn’t have much time to complain because that weekend we were off again – this time to explore the páramo ecosystems of Cayambe-Coca National Park and Antisana National Park. Cayambe-Coca was up first. Friday morning we loaded up the bus and headed about an hour and a half, this time, to the east. The páramos are located above the upper montane forests (like Pahuma) and above the treeline between 3000-4000m of elevation. The climate of the páramos is more or less summer by day and winter by night. The intense sun and 70 degree temps are replaced by the harsh cold night, resulting in a daily freeze-thaw cycle that poses a unique challenge for vegetation and wildlife. So, the weekend was all about adaptations – adaptations to freezing temperatures, drought, high winds, and intense UV radiation. What can survive this madness, and how do they do it?

We stopped on our way up the mountain to explore the Polylepis habitat and do a little bird watching. The Polylepis is the only species of trees well enough adapted to the crazy climate to survive the páramos and are an important buffer zone for other plants and animals. So, if you ever find yourself lost in the páramos and you’re feeling a little chilly, go hang out in the Polylepis. They have layers and layers of tissue paper like bark to protect against the cold, and their thick gnarled branches were practically begging me to climb them – so I did J. For those of you aware of my weird love of trees, this one is right up there.

Polylepis!

Just climbing some trees...

When we reached the top, I was seriously unimpressed. It was sleeting, I forgot my gloves, and there was literally nothing to look at. It was like the Iowa of Ecuador. Or that’s what my grumpy ass thought anyways. After getting off the bus and taking one look at the ground, I almost didn’t want to move for fear of crushing the sweetest vegetation we’ve seen so far. Everything was micro style and close to the ground as a way of retaining heat. Everything was – for lack of a better word – cute! And when you think about how something so small is making a purposeful contribution to the greater ecosystem… I don’t know, I think it’s pretty cool. Or, as the Ecuadorians would say, “¡Qué Chévre!” After exploring for a little while and catching a glimpse of some rare, half naked primates, I decided that the páramos may be even sweeter than the cloud forest. My awe was soon broken up by a shriek from our Ecuadorian TA Amilia. Apparently my friend Teresa had confused her blue pants for my blue pants and thus her butt for my butt. Needless to say Amilia was on the receiving end of a full on ass grab from her student. She actually used the would ‘traumatizing’ to describe Teresa’s feelski J

Paramo vegetation - Cayambe Coca N.P.

To give you a little perspective - one of those rosettes is about the size of a penny

Paramo love

Crazy shirtless primates

After lunch we split into groups and surveyed the number and distribution of vegetative morphospecies in a total of 40 50 square cm plots around Cayambe-Coca. The project took the remainder of the afternoon, by which point we were all more or less frozen. What is the best remedy for the effects of a long cold day in the field? A couple hours spent chillin in the natural hot springs of Papallacta, of course. Not sure if I have ever been so relaxed…

Field research study

Hot Springs - Papallacta, Ecuador

Saturday was day 2 of our páramo exploration – Antisana National Park. It was sunny and glorious and we passed the morning doing some serious bird watching. In an effort to conserve energy while scavenging for food, many birds of the páramos run around on the ground instead of flying which is actually pretty comical. We were also fortunate enough to see the endangered Andean Condor – a powerful, large-bodied, aggressive vulture.

Check out those good lookin field biologists :)

Antisana National Park

After having lunch by the lake, we spent the afternoon conducting the second half of our study. We again surveyed the morphospecies of 40 plots to be compared with our data from the previous day. The object was to observe the effects of human impact on the composition of páramo vegetation. Cayambe-Coca is a completely protected National Park while the land in Antisana is inhabited and used as grazing land for hoofed animals (as opposed to the soft-footed camelid natives). Conservation of páramo ecosystems is vital because not only is it home to fantastic biodiversity and high levels of endemism, and the soil is means for carbon storage, the páramos are important for hydrological control as they are a major fresh water supply. In fact, 85% of Quito’s water comes from the Cayambe-Coca and Antisana reserves!

Field Study - Part 2

How many morphospecies?

Lecture

We did a little more birding and then headed back to Quito, anticipating the night’s season opener soccer game between Liga and Nacional (2 Ecuadorian teams). On our way out, I spotted a white-tail out the window. Everyone hopped off the bus and got a good look – I’ve seen a few deer in my life, but it was still pretty cool.

What do ya say, pops? Shooter? :)

Whitetail deer - Antisana N.P.

We quickly learned that these people LOVE soccer with intense loyalty to their team. After the bus dropped us off, we walked about a half block and found ourselves in the middle of an actual riot. To paint you a picture, the road went something like…crazed Liga fans armed with rocks in hand (one guy was swinging a bloody chain around – not kidding), a shit ton of cops, a group of stupid gringos, more cops, and then the even crazier Nacional fans. Not only did we stand out because we’re white, but we were all in our muddy field clothes, rubber boots, and carrying giant hiking backpacks. I was sure at least a couple of us were goners, but thankfully a group of police officers took pity on us and ushered us into a fenced off area. So what did we do? Went and bought tickets to the game – duh. We weren’t entirely reckless though. Assuming that the $4 section was where all the crazies were going to sit, we opted for the $10 seats. We all went home and dropped our stuff off and then met up at Shwarma for a couple beers before the game. On my way, I was almost trampled by a herd of men running, waving big wooden sticks and the sound of sirens was near constant. I was excited. I pretty much had no idea what was going on on the field (without Joey Gangler to explain what the heck was happening) but it was a good time none the less. At Ecuadorian soccer games, beers cost $2 and apparently it’s normal for fans to shoot fireworks at other fans and a bloody face is no reason to be alarmed. Absolute insanity would be the most accurate way to describe my first fútbol experience and I fully intend to repeat it before I leave. On a roll, we headed to Bungalow 6 after the game to drink tequila and dance the rest of the night away.

We have fun

Danae, Caitlin, & I at the game (note the actual fire in the middle of the Nacional  fan section - apparently no big deal)

Bungalow love

The week again passed pretty uneventfully, but Friday brought our last day of Spanish and our first free weekend in awhile. After knocking off a final and a semester of Spanish in a month, we were ready for some fun (because clearly we don’t have enough already). I was bumming a little about missing Ski Weekend back home (for the first time ever), but our plans to spend the weekend in Baños white water rafting seemed like a pretty solid alternative. And what better way to get to Baños than a private party bus? The best description I can give would be: our annual summer yellow school bus trip to Miller Park Waunakee tornado style – on steroids – plus Spanish techno music and neon lights. 3 hours later, we arrived in Baños all feeling “happy” (an Ecuadorian phrase for ‘a little tipsy’). We ditched our stuff at the hostel and headed to the clubs. We settled on a couple favorites and danced until bar time. ‘We Found Love’ came on and I thought of you Nick Gilles, and that stupid shit grin Sean Statz would have had on his face…

I might miss my Spanish class juuuust a little bit...

The next morning, a crazy, multi-colored bus with no sides picked us up from the hostel and took us to the river, the whole way blasting the Spanish techno they love here. Lookin good in our wetsuits, we split up amongst 4 rafts. The guide in my boat was like 60 and for sure the man in charge, meaning we led the way. After we were underway for 15 minutes or so, he goes, “get in the water”. We thought he was kidding. But he wasn’t. 15 minutes after that, he goes, “who wants to play flip the raft?” Again, we thought he was kidding. Again, he wasn’t. After we were all safe in the raft again we noticed we were missing one. Poor Aviv (Kim Kraabel size)was floating a quarter mile behind us. Eventually we rescued her and when we thought all was good, our guide just swan-dived off the back of the raft, leaving us without directions. I’m not sure what type of regulations they have here in Ecuador, but it was definitely an experience J.

Bus ride to the river

Banos sugar cane stands!

We spent the afternoon bumming around Baños and doing a little napping. Later, 7 of us girls got showered up and went out to dinner at this really cool place called Casa Hood. It had a sweet feminist vibe, great food, and delicious canelazo. Our solid evening of good conversation ended with us momentarily trapped in the restaurant. After 5 minutes of failed attempts to open the door, Laura and I discovered an attached plastic banana. Apparently, ‘pull the banana and push’ was the key to leaving. I don’t think there was a single person there not staring at us…

Back at the hostel, we pre-gamed a bit and then headed to the Leprechaun – our prime spot from the night before. Somehow, we managed to get free flaming shots. They were free because they were gross. But they were on fire so I still felt like a badass. The bar opened up to a big area outside with lots of tables, cool plants, and a fire in the middle, which was where we spent most of our time. Before long, I struck up a conversation with a guy who ended up being from Portugal. He introduced me to his friends, a pretty random collection of people from England, Germany, and Wales (I told him all about you Ellen – and HillDuff!). Anyways, I pretty much parked it at a table and hung out with these 6 guys for the rest of the night. I’m not sure if it was in an effort to fit in or what, but for some reason I decided to speak in a British accent for the larger part of the evening. Seemed like a good idea at the time… On the whole it was a solid evening and the end to a stellar weekend. So, shout out to Matthew Colton of Dubai, my miraculous ability to recall your name, and our new facebook friendship.

Sunday, we bussed back to Quito without the luxury of our private party bus. They played a movie on the bus, in English, without Spanish subtitles. It was awful too. The Mechanic? Look it up if you’re curious, but the whole thing was just bizarre.

We were only in Quito for the night though, because in the morning we began our week long trip to the coast. But, you’ll have to wait until next time to read about the bamboo cabin, monkeys, hammocks, beach rager, and my 21^st birthday because as I’m sure you’re sick of reading, I’m over writing.  Tomorrow morning I leave for the Tiputini Biodiverisity Station in the Yasuní, in the heart of the Amazon to spend two weeks in the most biodiverse place in the world! Here’s hoping I don’t get Malaria, a bot fly, or swallowed by an Anaconda! No internet while I’m there, so until next time folks…

H

Three weeks later...

Esteban & I at Bungalow 6

Chicos y Chicas! It’s your favorite gringa checking in J It’s been a solid three weeks since you’ve all heard from me (to be fair, I did tell you not to expect punctuality), but because my weeks have paled in comparison to my weekends, allow me to fast forward in the hope that those of you with short attention spans might actual make it through one of my posts.

The only thing really worth noting from the week of the 16^th was that Thursday brought the last day of class and naturally, salsa lessons. Our Spanish teacher was easily convinced that spending the last hour of class learning to “dance” would enrich our cultural experience – the six of us are collectively incredibly charming and persuasive. As I’m sure those of you acquainted with my grace and coordination can easily imagine, Steve and I were naturals. Sorry Sean, but you and your old lady friend at the terrace have nothing on us.

Friday morning we boarded the bus at 8am and headed to El Pahuma, located on the western Andean slope about 42 kilometers outside of the city. I wasn’t really sure what I was getting into, but I knew I was ready for a break from Quito. I don’t think I’m ever going to be a city girl…

A little background: El Pahuma is a family owned Orchid Reserve that opened in 2000 and was Ceiba’s first project in Ecuador. El Pahuma is unique in that it was founded on only the second easement in South American and the first of its kind – between landowner and conservation organization. The 25 year agreement between the Lima family and Ceiba outlined that Ceiba would conduct a biological inventory, educate the family about the plants and animals that inhabit the 600 hectare reserve, aid in the construction of a nature center and botanical garden, and provide the family with a salary for the first five years of the agreement. In return, the Lima family will not permit the cutting of timber, extraction of species, or hunting of animals for the duration of the agreement.  12 years later, the Lima family is self-sustaining, generating funds from tourists – foreign and local – and serving as an example that conservation is a legitimate alternative to the deforestation pressures felt by many private land owners. Why is this so fucking brilliant? Buying out a bunch of families, roping off a plot of land, calling it a reserve, and slapping a price tag on it that makes it inaccessible to locals only generates bitterness and resentment towards the gringo with the fat wallet – no matter how good his/her intentions. The easement keeps the family in control and sets them up in a position to truly profit as guides, accountants, and educators while simultaneously promoting awareness and conservation. Although the outcome has been extremely positive, when the Lima family signed the easement in 2000, their future was uncertain at best. The early vision was not to conserve, but rather to subsist by way of logging, hunting, and creating pastures and entering into an agreement that prohibited all those potential sources of revenue truly put their livelihood at stake. The success of El Pahuma can be attributed without a doubt to the family’s commitment to conservation. They always understood the importance of preserving the absolute goldmine that they’re sitting on, but they didn’t know how to make a living off of it. My professors Joe and Catherine, backed by the Ceiba Foundation, have worked alongside the Lima family to make El Pahuma what it is today, in a partnership that has evolved into a genuine friendship based on mutual respect and a common goal.

Alright, back to my weekend... We arrived at El Pahuma, elevation 1900m, around 9am and spent a couple hours exploring the visitor center, botanical garden, and surrounding trails. After we ate lunch at the Lima family’s restaurant, we split up into two separate groups for the rest of the weekend and my group of 11 was led by our professor Catherine and our field TA Diana. Our lecture that afternoon was focused on cloud forest ecosystems and because there is no more fitting place to have that lecture than in the cloud forest, my group packed up our stuff and set out. Destination: Guarida del Osos (The Bear’s Den), a primitive cabin, elevation 2250m. Carrying all our gear, we hiked literally straight up, naturally, in the rain. And the decreased oxygen concentration wasn’t doing me any favors. Herman – remember that hike we did in Vail? Times that by about a million and you would be getting close to my Friday afternoon. Eventually we made it and our inevitable exhaustion was accompanied by an unparalleled sense of accomplishment. Our home for the night was perfect – a single worn cabin without running water or electricity and next to it, a wicked fire pit. After an hour or so of exploring, we settled in for a lecture on the birds of the Pahuma cloud forest. About half way through Cath’s lecture, as if on cue, a mixed flock of Tanagers landed just down the trail from the cabin. We all grabbed our bins and went to check it out. Now, I’ve never been a birdy or really understood all the hoopla and I definitely didn’t expect to get so excited, but there is something pretty intense about having a gorgeous Plate-Billed Mountain Toucan, endangered and endemic to the Pahuma cloud forest region, in your field of vision. Out of the mixed flock, I was able to identify a Grass Green Tanager and a Blue-Winged Mountain Tanager, both of which are incredibly beautiful – google it. After lecture we had some more free time to explore and then dinner. One of the Lima sisters hiked up to the cabin and prepared us an absolute feast only to be followed by hot chocolate and s’mores. Then, around 9:30pm we went for a night walk and stumbled upon a few tree frogs and a couple badass walking sticks. We eventually made it back to the fire and welcomed the warmth of delicious canelazo (a hot beverage consumed in the highlands of Ecuador, Peru and Columbia that consists of brandy, sugar, naranjilla juice, and cinnamon) as we relaxed and swapped stories (If you can imagine, I was able to contribute a few goodies). 

Will, Aviv, and I on the way up, doing some serious bonding

In the morning we got up at 6 to do some bird watching. In addition to another mixed flock of Tanagers, I saw a male and female Masked Trogan and a family of Powerful Woodpeckers. Fun Fact: Woodpeckers’ tongues actually wrap around their brains so they don’t rattle themselves stupid. After breakfast, we continued our upward hike along the Sandero Oso de Anteojos to the Yumbo Trail. It was longer and steeper than our hike from the day before, but at least we didn’t have to carry all of our shit. Mom – Pahuma was definitely my cure for overpacking. We stopped every now and then for Cath to point something out or explain a concept, and the amount that I retained is unreal. Everything is in front of you. It’s real. It’s relevant. It’s applicable. This is how learning is supposed to be.

The Powerfuls

Learning

The start of the Yumbo Trail - an old trade route that cut through the Andes hundreds of years ago

Hiking through the cloud forest is nuts. Very Jurassic Park. Oh, I guess this is a good time to mention that any picture I take with my camera that looks like a toy captures little to nothing so from here on out any picture is jacked from some else in my program with actual photography skills and a grown up camera. And pops – we saw some good bear sign, but no Andean bear… Oh, and shout out to Mark See for the bomb binocular straps! Best thing ever.

What goes up, must come down, and hiking down a mountain in a downpour isn’t exactly an easy task. The rain coupled with my natural grace led to a few solid wipeouts and my being completely covered in mud. Once we were back at the visitor center and all cleaned up (clean, mind you, not dry. Damp is pretty much a state of constant being when you literally live in the clouds.), we had a chance to sit and have a conversation with Renee, a son of the landowner and his son Geovani. They are both extremely passionate about conservation and what Pahuma stands for. They are incredibly down to earth and well intentioned people and I believe Pahuma has a very successful future.

After dinner, and spending the past 36 hours together, the 4 different bedrooms in the visitor center was giving my group separation anxiety. Our solution? Throw all our mattresses on the floor in the common room and have a slumber party. Duh.

Sunday morning we did some more bird watching before breakfast and spent the rest of the morning listening to Cath’s lecture on cloud forest vegetation and learning to make voucher specimens. The afternoon was set aside for a hike to the waterfall (and of course, then swimming in said waterfall). It was incredible.

My trip to El Pahuma made me realize just how over Quito I actually was and I couldn’t wait until our next trip. My host family on the other hand has a hard time understanding my excitement. They were less than thrilled with my muddy field clothes and were repulsed when I explained where we stayed and that nature was the baño. They aren’t exactly outdoorsy J.

Anyways, that’s all I have time for right now, as I’m sure you’re sick of reading my ramblings. I’m heading to the north coast until Sunday and won’t have internet so don’t expect to hear anything until then. My next post will include my weekend in the páramos, my first soccer game, my white water rafting trip, and my new British accent! Stay tuned and remember to think of me on the Thursday and take a shot because I’ll FINALLY be 21! That means you roomies!

And I miss you Steve!

And a special shout out to my mom – it’s her birthday today so give her a call or stop by the house and have a beer with her. Brandon talked to her last night Riley so you better get on it or he’s going to be the favorite…

Getting Settled...

Mis amores!

Since I left you last, the chaos has subsided (for the most part anyways), and I am finding a comfortable rhythm in my new life. And because I know you’re all dying to hear about it, especially you Riley Peters, aaand in an effort to procrastinate my Spanish paper a little longer (some things don’t change), here you have it. Happy reading!

Wednesday was our first full day off class. (I decided to skip Tuesday because it was more or less filled with rain and Ecuadorian bureaucracy, neither of which are exactly blog worthy.) My schedule is pretty simple; everyday it’s science in the morning and Spanish in the afternoon. But before I get ahead of myself, I suppose I should give you all little background. I always assume people know what I’m thinking when I explain things, which they rarely do, leaving the majority of my audience more than confused. If you’ve ever heard me tell a story, you can relate. So, I guess what I’m trying to say is that this is my attempt at clarity…

The name of my program is “Ceiba Tropical Conservation” and it differs from other study abroad semesters in that it’s taught entirely by two UW professors and is actually pretty academically intensive. There are 21 students in my program, about 14 of whom go to UW and the rest are from other universities in the US. We are a pretty bizarre group - as can be expected when you throw together a bunch of science majors stoked to learn about plants, but these people already feel like family (and we haven’t even spent three weeks together in the Amazon with limited showers yet). Also, our profs Catherine and Joe are a couple, only enhancing the pseudo-family vibe. We are all enrolled in the same classes: Terrestrial Ecology followed by Marine Biology with a Conservation Biology curriculum woven throughout. We are spending the first month studying at USFQ before the field becomes our classroom, but while we’re here, we are required to take one Spanish class. After a taking a year off from my language studies, I still managed to test into “Advanzaba Intensiva”. My guessing skills would astound people. February marks the beginning of our travels – three weeks at the Tiputini Biodiversity Station in the Yasuní national park followed by a few days in Quito and then three weeks studying at the GAIAS institute in the Galapagos Islands (which my mom told me was where Darwin came up with his theories about natural selection and evolution – who knew? J Just kidding mom! Love you!). To tie things up and actually have a chance to apply what we’ve learned, we spend the last month interning with an organization of our choice. Our work can be anything from animal protection/observation to environmental conservation to sustainable agriculture to environmental education and can be based anywhere in Ecuador! Now that we’re on the same page, about this at least, back to what I was saying…

I spend the morning, 9am-noon, in Cons Bio and the afternoon, 2-5pm, in Spanish (three hours a day because we’re cramming an entire semester into the one month before we leave USFQ). It makes for a long day, especially given my hour-long commute, but I’m actually sincerely enjoying it. During our two hour break, a few of my classmates and I usually venture into town to a small local restaurant where we can get a traditional three course meal for $2.50. Did I mention that I could get used to the cost of living here? (Minus my hairspray – that cost $10.) The rest of our break is usually passed basking in the sun next to the lagoon and sharing a few laughs. As our homework load has increased, this time reminds me of high school – everyone trying to eat and copy each other’s Spanish homework in 30 minutes at lunch. Señora Fox, if you’re reading this, I obviously never did that. I’m just speaking generally.

The lagoon in the middle of campus

The purple building is where I have Cons Bio

My Spanish class isn’t all that bad. We mostly just practice conversing and I really like our teacher. It’s next to impossible to slack off though, given that there are only 5 of us in the class (a change from my 300 person biochem lecture…). Our homework each night is to interview a member of our host family on a topic of Ecuadorian culture and learn three new words of either Spanish or Kichwa – the native language. This usually provides us with pretty good conversation material. Thus far, we have discussed the role and mentality of family in Ecuador and how it differs from the states, the differences between traditional and alternative medicines, and different Ecuadorian legends. I found our discussion about alternative medical practices and home remedies to be fascinating, reinforcing my belief that we medicalize everything in the U.S. and I know Taylor Lauzon would have really enjoyed this discussion. I’m receiving academic credit for my Spanish class, but on top of that it has been a fantastic bridge between my studies and my life here in Quito, giving me the tools to better communicate my thoughts and opinions and fostering a greater understanding of what is going on around me.

After class, there is a bar conveniently located across the street from the university called “The Catus” which has happy hour from 4-6. A 24oz Pilsner for 75 cents is a welcome reward at the end of the day.

Tyler (unable to take a normal photograph) & I at the  Cactus

You’ll be happy to hear, that despite my droning on about my academics, I’ve managed to establish a social life outside of the classroom. Are you surprised? Friday night was my first night out in Quito. About 12 of us met up and had dinner followed by our fair share of Pilsners on the upper balcony of a restaurant/cervezcera called Shwarma, and after a few games of “Circle of Death” I felt like I had done a thousand sit-ups – they are still getting used to my laugh as it’s more of an acquired taste… As the night wore on, our group about halved as some people went home and others to Steve’s favorite club – Bungalow 6 - in La Mariscal (or as my mom calls it, “Gringolandia”). Those of us left smoked hookah and chatted about everything and nothing and in excellent company I had one of those moments, like ‘damn, I am genuinely, really happy right now,’ and isn’t that the point of all this?

Saturday, our (entire) class met up at el Jardín Botánico in la Parque Carolina (that giant park near my house that I mentioned before) for an optional plant identification activity. Go ahead and pass judgment. Plants on a Saturday morning, I’d probably judge me too. But in reality, being able to apply something that you’ve learned is sweet no matter what it is. I’ve probably been taught how to identify and classify plants 27 different times (okay, like 4) but Saturday I was able to observe plants in their livelihood that until then I had only seen as examples in books – and to think that was only in Quito and I’m about to spend three weeks in the most biodiverse place, not in Ecuador, not in South America, but in the world. To say I’m jacked would be a severe understatement.

Afterwards, Joe and Cath took us to a restaurant called ‘Crepes & Waffles’ where everyone fell victim to gluttony and ate themselves into comas – Greta Chizek style. I’m not usually one of those weirdos who takes pictures of their food, but…whatever.

Nutella crepe with strawberries & bananas

That afternoon, a handful of us went to the artesian market in la Mariscal and wandered around for a few hours. Alex Rezazedeh, the jewelry is redic. This is a place I will definitely be returning to…

After catching the bus back from the foch, my classmates Jake, Will, and I grabbed a couple cervezas at Shwarma where Jake engaged in the world’s most awkward handshake with the manager/owner who has come to love us (I’m pretty sure we’re the only regular “gringos”). We talked about places we’ve been – them more so than me – and about all the cool shit we’re about to do. Jake spent last semester in Ghana and is an extremely animated storyteller with a great sense of humor. After we parted ways he (and his extremely limited Spanish language skills) attempted to withdraw money from a parking pass meter he assumed to be an ATM. After forcefully wedging his credit card where it didn’t belong and immediately regretting it, it seemed it had passed the point of no return. But 20 minutes, 5 people, and a system reboot later, his credit card came shooting out. All he managed to say was, “Soy una idiota.” He then failed to withdraw money from an actual ATM 5 minutes later for reasons his Spanish comprehension could provide no explanation. At that point he decided he should just go home.

Sunday, mi mamá, María Fernanda, and I went to “La Mitad del Mundo”. Literal translation, half of the world. The first of two equatorial museums, el Museo de Sitio Intiñan (walk of the sun), was private, and a guided tour provided a lot of information on the different indigenous groups of Ecuador and their respective histories. It was incredibly interesting and unbelievably beautiful. The tour was in Spanish but I was surprised to find that I understood about 90% of what she said. Granted there were a couple kids in our group so I’m sure it was pretty watered down, but my Spanish is improving nonetheless. Afterwards, because I’m a tourist, I stood in both the northern and southern hemispheres at once, straddling the equator (keep your comments to yourself Brandon Ihrcke/Riley Peters/Sean Statz/Waunakee Tornado). The second museum was home to the great monument pictured below. The sphere at the top is a globe tipped on its side…

Mi mama Betty, Maria Fernanda & I

Standing on the Equator

Sunday afternoon, because I haven’t left my entire Wisconsin self behind, a few friends and I met up at a bar in la Mariscal to have a few beers and watch the Packer game. There were a few other Packers’ fans and a handful of Giants’ fans and Joe Buck with a Spanish voice over sucks as bad as Joe Buck in English. The outcome was less than ideal (in case you haven’t heard) especially given that I had spent a solid amount of time trying to explain the NFL, playoffs, and how great the Packers were to my host mom. Even 3000 miles away, a loss still hurts. Then Steve got into a bar fight with a Danish Giants’ fan at an Irish-American Pub in Quito, Ecuador during the playoffs. Well, not really. But we thought it would make a good story…

Steve, Caitlin, & I 

The rest of the crew: Jake (terrified), Molly, & Lizzy

Okay, I really need to get to my Spanish paper. The only all-nighter I intend to pull this semester is to stalk a giant armadillo in the Amazon and watch the sun rise over the Pacific Ocean in the Galapagos…

Until I find the ambition or am in need of an excuse to avoid my homework again…

H

In case the last post wasn't long enough for you...

Well, folks I’m actually following up on a commitment. Its tomorrow and I’m about to catch you up on the last couple days. But please, do not expect this punctuality in the future, as it is less than likely.

Yesterday morning after breakfast, mi mama and I took ‘el trole’ away from the more commercial part of Quito where we live (I literally live next to a Pizza Hut) deeper into the historic part of Quito – el Centro. We got off the bus a la plaza de Santo Domingo and ventured into the church located in the corner of the plaza – Iglesia Santo Domingo. The architecture was absolutely breathtaking, but couldn’t even be compared to the second church we visited, la Iglesia de La Compañía de Jesús. The beauty in the fantastic detail was unlike anything I have ever seen. We sat in on mass for awhile and even though I am not Catholic and probably only took in about 20% of what the father said, there is something very powerful about tradition that has withstood centuries and a common belief in something greater than the physical world. As the hymns resonated throughout the grand structure, the faith of the congregation was almost tangible. And although I am not about to convert to Catholisism, it was a profound experience I won’t quickly forget.

The third and final church we visited was la Iglesia y Convento San Francisco, the oldest church in Quito. In celebration of ‘el nacimiento’ there was an exhibit set up which displayed the work of artists from around Europe & Latin America featuring different cultural representations of the great birth. Entrance into the exhibit cost twice as much for me, una extranjera, as it did for Betty, a practice I’ve found to be quite common here. After making our way through the exhibit, we feasted with the rest of the congregation in celebration – a traditional Ecuadorian meal of boiled potatoes, mote (a type of corn kernel boiled in water), a mix of fresh vegetables much like pico de gallo, and pork pulled right from the roasted pig chillin on the table. Delicioso! San Francisco also houses a spectacular museum and even though I know next to nothing about art, I was able to appreciate the fact that many of the pieces dated back to the 18^th century or earlier.

The small plaza within San Francisco where we ate lunch

The last part of el centro that we visited before the rain came, was La Ronda. La Ronda is la primera calle, or the first road in Quito. It began as a pre-Incan path that led down the mountainside to el Rio Pichincha, and by the 20^th century, La Ronda was home to many incredible artists and musicians. Unfortunately, it became very run down and dangerous around the 1970s but a recent renovation (started in 2006) has returned La Ronda to its former status. Currently, it functions similar to State Street, for all you Wisconsinites. It is open only to pedestrians, lined by cafes, shops, and restaurants and at night the streets are filled with lights, music, and people in high spirits. A home away from home?

The inside of a cafe on La Ronda

La Ronda

That night, after I finished skyping with a friend from home, mi mama told me that she had a webcam similar to mine that her friend who lives in Spain had given her as a gift, but she had no idea how to use it. She was wondering if I could figure it out. So, I helped her download skype and explained how it works – not an easy task in Spanish given my limited knowledge of computers to start, but we eventually got it set up. Then she wanted to practice. So, I sat in the living room on my laptop and she in the computer room and we video chatted for a solid twenty minutes J She was so happy & said she couldn’t way to talk to her amiga in Spain. #1 Roomie for sure.

This morning was my first day of class, well, orientation actually. It was the first time I’ve ridden the bus by myself and it was actually pretty painless. I even arrived early (quite possibly for the first time in my life) only to learn that the concept of time is essentially non-existent here. The man conducting our orientation – a man full of life and good humor – explained that 5:00 means anytime between 5:00 and 5:59 but if you show up at 6:30, you are still not late. I think I’m going to get along here just fine…

We were welcomed by the president of the university, Carlos (yes, first name basis), who encouraged us to not get wrapped up in our studies, but rather explore and experience Quito, live completely immersed in their culture. He even actually told us to party (I think he worked at UW in a past life). His advice I anticipate I will have no problem following. The orientation also covered health and safety and the ways in which we can best protect ourselves because Quito although vibrant and rich in both culture and history, like any poverty ridden city is home to many who have been forced to resort to crime as a means to survive. And as “gringos” we are seen as easy targets. I learned today that the term “gringo”, meaning outsider essentially, is actually a term of endearment here in Ecuador much unlike the derogatory connotation the word holds in Mexico and many other Latin American countries. So, you can imagine my relief when I tell you that every time we pass a white person, my host mom always points out the “gringos” or “gringitos” to me and shakes her head. Good to know she doesn’t actually hate us J

A short discussion about Ecuador’s biodiversity and a quick overview of our schedule & travel plans for the months ahead aroused my scientific self and had me spinning with excitement and anticipation. But I was surprised by the equal stimulation of my social science mind. Another USFQ staff member gave a brief but intriguing lecture on the roles of race, ethnicity, and class in Ecuador and the tensions between the people of the coast and those of the highlands, the indigenous people, the Afro Ecuadorians, the whites, and the mestizos. He also touched on sexual orientation and gender roles. Although there has been forward movement on both issues, homosexuality is still very hush hush and women remain second class citizens in a patriarchal society where the feminist movement stalled after winning the right to vote. He explained the concept of race and ethnicity as one that was socially constructed, but did not speak about gender in a way that suggested that he believed it to also be a social construct. If this man taught a class, I would definitely take it, more than likely love it, and probably have an opinion or two…

After the orientation we had lunch and I was able to meet a few more of the students in my program. A few of us headed back to Quito together and after parting ways, I decided to explore a little more by myself. Walking the streets of Quito is great for my self esteem. I’ve never been told how beautiful I am more often, except for when I’m hanging out with my fav roomie Sean Statz, of course. After awhile, I stumbled upon a small, intimate restaurant near my apartment where I’m sitting now, writing, enjoying a glass of wine, and people watching – a sport that has proved as entertaining here as back home (Mattie Appleman, Brian Huebner). Not really sure why that makes me think of Huebs…The music here just changed from the Spainish tunes of the past hour to Pink Floyd (not sure, but I’ll take it) which is really making me wish Taylor Lauzon was here right now…

I just saw a man with a braided mullet. Yikes. Bikes. (Deano) Alright, I’m feeling like I would rather draw out 10 Ochem mechanisms than write another sentence. So, to those of you who actually made it to the end of this post, until next time…

Besos!

H

The anticipation is over...

Well friends, it’s currently raining, so I guess now is as good of time as ever to get this promised blog started... It’s only been three days, but I have a lot to share. In an effort to actually enjoy updating this blog I am going to avoid any and all revisions, be they grammatical, punctual, spelling, vocabulary, or whatever other crap you English majors care about. It will also probably read much the same way as I talk, so if you’re sick of my rambling, my only advice would be to stop reading, because I do not anticipate my brain will be functioning any more efficiently any time soon. That being said, here goes…

I left Wisconsin and my mom after a moderately tearful goodbye early Thursday morning and set off for what I anticipated to be an extremely stressful day. I was very nervous - not about flying or crashing or anything thing like that – no, it was exponentially more likely that I was going to fall down, get lost, or miss my plane in between flights, especially since I was connecting in O’Hare and Atlanta. But my fears were quickly dissolved, unlike the poor kid sitting across from me from Chicago to Atlanta. As soon I sat down I heard him say that he hated flying and I noted his white knuckled kung-fu grip on the arm rests despite the fact that people were still boarding. During take-off and landing, I don’t think he could have possibly talked any faster to anyone who would listen. I know it’s physiologically impossible, but I don’t think he was even breathing. I don’t even know how he was processing his own thoughts that fast. But no worries Jenna Becker, this kid could take you in speed, but you’ve got him beat in volume, no contest.

Saying goodbye to everything familiar

I arrived in Quito around 11pm that night in one piece with all my luggage (I thought for sure that since I survived the day, there was no way my suitcase was going to make it there too – pessimism at its finest). Immigration was a breeze and my host mom, Betty Cevallos (approx. age 60) and her daughter María Fernanda (approx. 28) who lives with her, were waiting for me. Note my use of approximations as I’m pretty sure it’s universally inappropriate to ask a woman her age. They apologized immensely for the rain and crappy weather and I’m pretty sure they still don’t believe me when I tell them I’m not cold (it’s been mid 60s since I arrived – not much different than the freakish weather in wisco right now). They drove me back to their home, an apartment on the 11^th floor of their building and I could have sworn that cute little old woman was Jeff Gordon. Actually I’m pretty sure everyone on the road here drives for NASCAR. There may or may not be speed limits, or traffic rules in general and I still can’t believe we didn’t see at least a hundred accidents in the 20 minute drive from the airport to the apartment. The guard is the cutest old man, probably useless in the event of an actually break-in, but cute none the less. He always talks to me, but he has really thick accent so I really never know what he’s saying to me. But like I said, cute.  Their home is simple and modest but practical and functional and I have my own room and Internet in the apartment was a welcomed surprise.

The view from my living room window

Excuse the clouds  - like I said, it's raining

In the morning, after a breakfast of fruit, yogurt, bread, and cheese, mi mama and María Fernanda took me to Cumbayá, a suburb of Quito where the university that I will attend (Universidad San Francisco de Quito) is located. Cumbayá has drawn many middle and upper class families from Quito, boosting the local economy and the wealth is evident in the homes and the many private schools. Cumbayá is also the home of the hospital where Betty’s other daughter María Carla works as a doctor and where Betty’s father, abuelito as he is better known, is currently hospitalized. We stopped at the hospital for a quick visit before we went to USFQ. Never have I felt so much love in one room – love for eachother, and genuine love for me, basically a stranger to these people. Abuelito and his wife were beyond precious. When he didn’t want to finish his breakfast, she told him he’d better be careful or his girlfriend would leave him for a gordito. María Carla was there as well, visiting on her break, and she is as kind as the rest of her family. Betty’s sister was there with her husband who is a great man, full of affection and enthusiasm who introduced himself as my uncle and then, as well as the two occasions I have seen him since, he calls me “mi sobrina”. They are a lively bunch to put it mildly, and so many loud conversations going on at once was definitely overwhelming, but their humor and good will would have been obvious had I not spoken a word of Spanish. They were all extremely patient and kind and encouraged my participation in the conversation which quickly put me at ease. After an exchange of hugs and kisses with everyone (Mattie Appleman), we left for the university. The campus is seriously so beautiful it hurts. Stay tuned for pics but if you really can’t wait – google it. And then seriously consider taking up a hobby. They took me out for lunch in Cumbayá before we returned to Quito where we chatted for a bit over tea. Then Betty and I were off again to learn how to ride the bus. It costs a quarter which is pretty legit (they use US currency here which has proved extremely convenient) but I have to take two buses to school and it takes close to an hour. No more rolling outta bed 15 minutes before class for this girl. Oh, and everyone dresses super nice here. Always. So I’m definitely going to have to start showering regularly and resist the urge to wear my pajamas to class. I’m sure I’ll adjust eventually, at least more quickly to that than to the other custom I discovered upon returning home from our two hour bus excursion. Apparently they don’t eat dinner here. Instead, a large lunch is eaten midday and each evening, coffee and bread is the norm. That will take some getting used to. Around 7, mi mama and María Fernanda went to meet María Carla and invited me to join. I declined, feeling exhausted from the day and a little homesick. After they left, I sent a few emails and crept on facebook to feel a little closer to home (aside from the obvious 3000 mile physical separation), read for a while, and went to bed.

Saturday, María Carla was scheduled to perform an operation at the hospital, so her two children, Martin (7) and Paula Isabella (2) spent the day with Betty and I (María Fernanda teaches English at the University in Quito during the week and takes classes (about teaching English) on the weekends). Betty, the kiddos, and I spent the day at the park very near the apartment which is absolutely huge – we walked for two hours and didn’t make it through the whole thing! There were easily hundreds of people playing soccer – 5 year olds to legitimate athletes to old men, playground equipment, a place to rent boats, multiple biking/running paths, and vendors of all kinds. The kids insisted on buying chifles which are sliced green bananas, fried and like anything friend, they’re fantastic. Martin took great interest in the fact that I will be going to the Galapagos and when we returned to the house we spent a solid hour looking through my textbook, identifying all the different animals. He provided the Spanish, and I the English. He also gave me a children’s magazine about the Galapagos to borrow J He is adorable and I would very much like to keep him (Sean Statz). After lunch, they crashed and I left to meet up with one of the girls from UW. It was such a relief to speak English. I was really feeling the effects of the strain speaking Spanish all day was having on my brain. The last two days, I needed to constantly be making a conscious effect to listen, process, form thoughts, and speak. Nothing was easy. From the moment I woke up, I needed to be on my game and I was seriously fatigued. We grabbed coffee down the street from my apartment and swapped stories and for lack of a better word, it was great. Later that evening, after my classmate and I parted ways, I was feeling a little homesick again and because I couldn’t access hulu or anything like that I ventured downstairs to the less than legitimate DVD store in my building and bought UP for $1.50 – a pretty cheap remedy I’d say. After that sleep came easily. I’m a little surprised my host family haven’t said anything about my snoring now that I think about it…

Yikes, this is getting lengthy. Don’t say I didn’t warn you. Well I’m sick of writing as I’m sure you’re sick of reading. So you will all have to wait until to tomorrow to hear about my adventure to al centro and my first day of class! Ciao!